A: Premium Pool Equipment is a proudly locally owned and operated Australian business, built on years of family experience in pool servicing, maintenance, and supply. We specialise in providing top-tier pool equipment with a focus on trusted brands, expert knowledge, and dependable service for Australian families.

A: While we’re independent, we proudly stock and recommend only trusted, industry-proven pool equipment brands like AstralPool, Zodiac, Maytronics, Madimack, Waterco, Davey, and many more. Our independence allows us to give unbiased advice tailored to your pool’s needs.

A: We’re headquartered in Perth, Western Australia, with installation services available to Perth metro customers, and nationwide product delivery through our online store.

A:

• We’re pool experts, not just product resellers
• We combine family business values with technical expertise
• We offer genuine products with full Australian warranties
• Fast, reliable delivery Australia-wide
• Certified local installation support for Perth-based customers

A: Absolutely. You can reach out via our Contact Page for product advice, installation questions, or custom bundles. We’re happy to help make sure you get the right solution for your pool.

A: Yes — certified installation is available for customers in the Perth region. We work with fully licensed technicians to ensure your equipment is installed professionally and in line with warranty guidelines.

A: You can request installation during checkout (where available), or simply reach out via our Contact Page. Once we receive your enquiry, we’ll be in touch to schedule a time that suits you.

A: Many items can be self-installed by experienced users, but we always recommend licensed installation for chlorinators, pumps, heaters, and anything electrical or plumbed. Improper installation may void warranties.

A: No, installation is charged separately. The cost depends on your location, equipment type, and site specifics. We’ll provide a quote once we assess your needs.

A: We accept returns on unused items in original packaging within 30 days of delivery, subject to eligibility. Please review our full Returns Policy located in the footer of the homepage for full details.

A: To begin a return, please email us via the Contact Page with your order number and reason for return. We’ll guide you through the process and confirm your eligibility.

A: Yes — all products come with a full manufacturer’s warranty, and in many cases, these warranties are valid only when installed by a certified technician. You can view warranty terms under our Terms of Service and product-specific pages.

A: Contact us through our site or via email. We’ll work directly with the manufacturer if warranty support is required, and can also assist with troubleshooting or replacements when needed.

A: All of our policies — including Returns, Shipping, Terms of Service, and Warranty Information — are easily accessible at the bottom of every page on our site under the footer menu.

A: Pump size depends on your pool volume, plumbing size, filtration system, and desired turnover time. A general rule is to aim for one full water turnover every 6–8 hours. If unsure, contact us with your pool dimensions and filter type — we’ll calculate the ideal pump size for you.

A: Filter sizing should match or exceed the flow rate of your pump.

Here’s a basic guide:

• Small pools (up to 40,000L): Cartridge filter up to 100 sq. ft. or 21” media filter
• Medium pools (40,000L–70,000L): Cartridge filter 100–150 sq. ft. or 24” media filter
• Large pools (70,000L+): Cartridge filter 150+ sq. ft. or 28”+ media filter

Oversizing your filter can reduce maintenance and improve water clarity.

• Single speed pumps run at one constant speed — they’re cheaper upfront but use more electricity.
• Variable speed pumps allow you to adjust flow rates, improving energy efficiency and reducing noise. They’re more expensive initially but usually pay off in power savings over time.

A: It depends on the condition of your existing equipment. Many pumps, filters, and chlorinators can be upgraded individually. However, if multiple components are aging or incompatible with new tech (e.g. automation), upgrading the full system may be more cost-effective long term.

A: Most salt chlorinators are compatible with standard plumbing setups, but the key is matching flow rate, salt levels, and control requirements. If you’re unsure, send us your current chlorinator’s model and pipe sizing — we’ll confirm before purchase.

A: Each product page lists compatibility details. If it’s not clear, reach out to us with your existing brand, model, and a photo if possible — we’ll confirm whether the item will fit your setup or recommend a better match.

A: You’ll need a salt chlorinator, salt cells, and pool-grade salt. Your pump and filter may remain the same if they’re in good condition. We recommend a system check to ensure compatibility and avoid damage to existing gear.

• Robotic cleaners are usually universal but differ in power and feature sets.
• Suction cleaners require specific plumbing setups and are better for pools with minimal debris.

If your pool has a vinyl liner, steep walls, or tight corners, compatibility matters — we can help you select the right fit.

A: Over-sizing equipment can create inefficiencies, safety issues, or excessive pressure. We can help you balance performance with system safety — sometimes bigger isn’t better.

A: Cloudy water often results from imbalanced chemicals, inadequate filtration, or the onset of algae. Regularly test and adjust your water’s pH and sanitizer levels, ensure your filter is clean and functioning efficiently, and consider using a clarifier or algaecide when necessary.

A: Normal water loss can occur due to evaporation, splashing, or backwashing. However, significant drops might indicate a leak. Inspect your pool’s structure and plumbing for visible signs of leakage, and consult a professional if the issue persists.

A: Begin by brushing the pool’s surfaces to dislodge algae. Adjust the pH levels, shock the pool with a high dose of chlorine, and run the filter continuously until the water clears. Using an algaecide can also help prevent future growth.

A: High chlorine levels can naturally decrease over time. To expedite the process, cease adding chlorine and expose the pool to sunlight, which helps break down chlorine. If immediate reduction is needed, a chlorine neutralizer can be used.

A: Consider transitioning to a mineral system or a saltwater chlorine generator, which can lessen the need for added chlorine. Maintaining proper chemical balance and keeping the pool clean also contributes to reduced chlorine consumption.

A: Noises from the pool pump can stem from clogged filters, worn bearings, or air leaks. Regularly check for obstructions, ensure the pump basket is clear, and inspect for any signs of wear or damage.

A: Typically, running your pool filter for 8 to 10 hours daily ensures thorough water circulation and filtration. This duration can vary based on pool size, usage, and environmental factors.

A: Winterizing your pool involves balancing the water chemistry, thoroughly cleaning the pool, and adding a winterizing agent or algaecide to prevent algae growth during the off-season.

A: Regular maintenance is key. This includes routine cleaning, timely replacement of worn parts, and ensuring that equipment operates under optimal conditions. Periodic professional inspections can also help identify and address potential issues early.

A: Vacuuming frequency depends on usage and location, but aiming for once a week is a good practice to keep your pool clean and reduce algae buildup.

A: The ideal pH level for pool water is between 7.4 and 7.6 to ensure optimal sanitizer effectiveness and swimmer comfort.

A: Regular maintenance, including proper chemical balancing, filtration, and periodic shocking, can prevent algae growth that turns pool water green.

A: High pressure can indicate a clogged filter or closed valves, while low pressure might suggest leaks or a problem with the pump. Cleaning the filter or addressing system leaks can resolve these issues.

A: Leaving a pool uncovered increases evaporation, and debris accumulation can lead to algae growth. Using a cover when the pool is not in use is recommended.

A: Signs include rough texture, stains, cracks, or peeling. Resurfacing may be needed to protect the structure and improve appearance.

A: The size depends on your pool’s volume and the filter system’s flow rate. A general rule is that the pump should circulate the entire pool volume within 8 hours.

A: The best heating method depends on your climate, budget, and usage. Heat pumps are fast becoming the most popular way to heat pools.

A: Cloudiness after shocking your pool can be due to particulate matter. Run the filter continuously, and consider using a clarifier to help the filter catch fine particles.

A: A strong chlorine smell is often due to chloramines, which form when chlorine binds with contaminants. This indicates the need for shocking the pool to break down chloramines and restore chlorine effectiveness.

A: Consider your pool’s size, type, and debris load. Automatic, suction-side, pressure-side, and robotic cleaners each have unique advantages for different pool environments.

A: Wrinkles in pool liners can be caused by improper installation, water chemistry imbalances, or groundwater pressure. Sometimes, they can be smoothed out manually; other times, professional adjustment is required.

A: Yes, converting to a saltwater system involves installing a salt chlorine generator, which requires an upfront investment but can reduce long-term maintenance costs and provide a gentler swim experience.

A: Use a pool cover to reduce evaporation, upgrade to a variable-speed pump, consider a robot pool cleaner and a pre-filter device such as a multicyclone.

A: Store chemicals in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight. Keep them in their original containers, away from each other to prevent reactions, and out of reach of children and pets.

A: Test your water regularly and adjust with calcium chloride to increase hardness or use a flocculant and dilute your pool water to decrease it, ensuring it stays within the recommended range to protect your pool surfaces and equipment.

A: Brown water can indicate high iron or manganese levels. Use a metal-sequestrant agent and adjust your water chemistry to clear the discolouration.

A: Before the rain, balance your chemicals and remove any loose items. After the rain, check and adjust the water chemistry, lower the water level if necessary, and clean your filters to handle the increased debris and dilution.

A: Common issues include incorrect settings, inadequate gas supply or flow, and pilot light or ignition failures.

A: A pool filter removes dirt, debris, algae, and other microscopic particles from your pool water, ensuring it stays clean, clear, and safe for swimming. It works in tandem with the pump to keep your water circulating and properly maintained.

A: The most common filter types are cartridge filters and media filters (often using sand, glass, or other filtration media). Each has its own strengths, maintenance needs, and performance characteristics.

A: Cartridge filters are low-maintenance and ideal for smaller to medium pools or areas with water restrictions. Media filters (sand/glass) suit larger pools and heavy usage thanks to their longer filtration cycles and backwashing capability.

A: Generally, 8 hours per day is sufficient for most pools. However, the actual runtime depends on pool size, usage, and filtration efficiency.

A: Yes — in fact, it’s often recommended. A larger filter can extend the time between cleaning or backwashing and improve water clarity without straining the system.

A: Cartridge filters use a pleated filter element that traps debris as water passes through. They don’t require backwashing — you simply remove the cartridge and hose it down periodically.

A: Depending on pool usage and environmental factors, most cartridge filters should be cleaned every 4–8 weeks. Regular maintenance ensures optimum performance and longevity.

A: With proper care, filter cartridges can last between 1–3 years. Signs it’s time to replace include cracked pleats, reduced water pressure, or persistent cloudiness.

A: Yes, but you’ll need to ensure it’s appropriately sized. For larger pools or heavy usage, multiple cartridges or a large surface-area filter is best.

A: Cartridge filters generally remove finer particles (down to 10 microns), resulting in clearer water. However, they require manual cleaning, while media filters can self-clean via backwashing.

A: Media filters use a tank filled with sand, glass, or zeolite that traps particles as water flows through. Periodically, the system is backwashed to clean out the captured debris.

A:

• Sand is economical and effective at filtering down to 25–30 microns.
• Glass filters finer particles (as low as 5 microns), requires less frequent backwashing, and can last longer.
• Zeolite improves clarity and may reduce chlorine demand due to ammonia absorption.

A: Backwashing is typically required every 1–4 weeks, depending on pool size, debris load, and media type. Watch for reduced water flow as an indicator.

A:

• Sand: 4–5 years
• Glass: 7–10 years
• Zeolite: 3–5 years

A: Yes — glass media filters smaller particles, improves clarity, and requires less water for backwashing. It’s a great option for those seeking efficiency and cleaner results.

A: It’s not recommended. Each media type has unique flow and performance characteristics. Mixing can reduce overall efficiency and cause uneven filtration.

A: This may be due to a dirty or undersized filter, high debris load, poor circulation, or unbalanced water chemistry. Clean the filter, check pump operation, and test chemical levels.

A: High filter pressure typically indicates clogging or reduced flow. For cartridge filters, clean or replace the cartridge. For media filters, perform a backwash.

A: Check the O-rings, unions, and seals. Over time, these can dry out or crack. Replacing worn parts often resolves the issue.

A: During daylight hours, especially in the afternoon when the pool is most likely in use or exposed to sun. This helps with chemical dispersion and debris removal.

A: Absolutely. Run the filter continuously for at least 6–8 hours after dosing to ensure proper chemical distribution and avoid localized imbalances.

A: There are three main types of pool heaters to choose from:

• Electric heat pumps – energy-efficient, great for consistent heating
• Gas heaters – heat up quickly, ideal for short-notice swimming or colder climates
• Solar systems – low operational cost, reliant on sun and roof space

The best option depends on your location, budget, pool size, and how often you use the pool.

A: Heat pumps draw in warm ambient air, compress it, and transfer the heat into the pool water through a heat exchanger. They work similarly to reverse-cycle air conditioners and are especially efficient in mild to warm climates.

A: Heater size depends on the volume of your pool and your preferred temperature. As a guide:

• Small pools (up to 25,000L): 6–9 kW
• Medium pools (25,000–50,000L): 9–13 kW
• Large pools (50,000L+): 15–25+ kW or dual units

It’s usually recommended to oversize slightly to ensure year-round performance.

A: It depends on the type:

• Small plug-in heat pumps: May be DIY-installed
• Hardwired electric heaters or large units: Should be installed by a licensed electrician
• Gas heaters: Legally require installation by a certified gas fitter in Australia

However always be mindful before atempting to install any equipment as this may void the equipments manufacturers warranty.

A: Not usually, but approval may be required if:

• Electrical upgrades or gas lines are being installed
• Rooftop solar plumbing is being routed

Your installer will typically handle compliance if required.

A: Heating speed varies:

• Gas heaters: 1–2°C per hour
• Heat pumps: 0.5–1°C per hour
• Solar heating: Slow and weather-dependent

Using a pool cover helps retain heat and shortens reheating times.

A: This depends on:

• Desired temperature
• Climate
• Heater type

Many pool owners use timers to run heaters during off-peak energy hours or overnight for consistent warmth.

A: Costs vary by type:

• Heat pumps: ~$1.50–$3.00/day
• Gas heaters: ~$5.00–$10.00/day
• Solar systems: Free to operate once installed

You can reduce costs with:

• A pool cover
• Off-peak energy usage
• Smart timers or thermostats

A: Yes — they can deliver up to 5x the energy they consume by extracting heat from the air rather than generating it.

A: Absolutely. Benefits include:

• Reduced heat loss (up to 70%)
• Lower energy bills
• Faster heating cycles
• Less evaporation and chemical loss

A: Maintenance depends on the type:

• Heat pumps: Keep coils clean, maintain airflow, inspect once a year
• Gas heaters: Service every 1–2 years by a licensed technician
• Solar systems: Flush and inspect for blockages, leaks, and scaling

A: Typical lifespans:

• Heat pumps: 8–12 years
• Gas heaters: 5–10 years
• Solar systems: 10–20 years

Lifespan depends on usage, water chemistry, and regular servicing.

A: Sanitisation systems eliminate harmful bacteria, viruses, and organic matter to keep your pool water safe, clean, and crystal clear. They help maintain chemical balance and reduce the risk of algae growth.

A: Both systems use chlorine, but saltwater pools generate it automatically using electrolysis. Saltwater pools are popular for their:

• Gentler feel on eyes and skin
• Lower chemical handling
• Steadier chlorine output

However, they do have a higher initial setup cost compared to manually dosed pools.

A: Yes. You’ll need to:

• Install a compatible saltwater chlorinator
• Add the correct amount of pool-grade salt (based on pool volume)
• Ensure your pump, filter, and plumbing are in good condition

Most conversions are straightforward, especially if your system is already in good working order.

A: Every 3–4 months, or more often if you have hard water or see scale buildup. Use a manufacturer-approved cleaning solution or a mild acid wash (diluted 1:5 ratio of acid to water) for best results.

A: Most systems should run between 6–10 hours daily, depending on your pool size, water temperature, and usage. In summer, longer run times may be required.

A: Typically between 3,000 – 4,500 ppm, but always follow your chlorinator manufacturer’s recommendation.

A: Yes — while chlorinators produce chlorine, it’s still important to test levels weekly, especially after:

• Rain
• Heavy usage
• Backwashing
• Equipment issues

A: Possible causes include:

• Salt hasn’t fully dissolved
• Dirty or scaled-up salt cell
• Faulty salinity sensor
• Incorrect chlorinator setting
• Very cold water temperatures can cause false readings

Re-test your salt levels manually and clean the cell before adjusting anything further.

A: This means your chlorinator isn’t detecting water movement. Causes may include:

• Blocked filter or skimmer
• Pump not primed or not running
• Faulty flow sensor
• Valve positions not allowing proper water flow

Always confirm that the pump is running and water is circulating normally before troubleshooting further.

• Check the power source and breaker
• Ensure the GPO (outlet) is working
• Inspect the power board for water ingress
• Some chlorinators have a fuse or reset button — refer to your manual
• If none of these resolve the issue, the internal circuit board may be damaged

• Low salt level
• Dirty or worn-out cell
• Incorrect timer settings
• Cell is reaching the end of its lifespan (usually 5–7 years)
• Water is too cold (most cells shut down under ~15°C)

Try manually increasing output and cleaning the cell first.

A: This alert means the unit has detected either:

• Reduced chlorine production
• Poor conductivity through the cell
• Excessive scale build-up

Try the following:

1. Clean the cell
2. Inspect for cracks or damage
3. Ensure salt levels are within range
4. If the message persists, test the cell output with a meter or contact support

A: Yes. If your unit has pH or ORP probes, you should:

• Clean them monthly with fresh water or probe cleaner
• Store them properly in storage solution when not in use
• Replace after 1–2 years depending on exposure and accuracy

Calibration may also be required using a buffer solution if readings drift.

A: This is likely calcium scale caused by:

• High pH or calcium levels
• Over-chlorination
• Poor water balance

Balance your chemistry (especially pH and calcium hardness) and consider cleaning the cell more frequently or installing a scale-reducing device.

A: Balanced water means all major water parameters — including pH, chlorine, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and stabiliser levels — are within ideal ranges. This ensures:

• Comfort for swimmers
• Protection for pool surfaces and equipment
• Maximum effectiveness of sanitising chemicals

A:

• Free Chlorine: 1.0 – 3.0 ppm (salt or manually dosed pools)
• pH: 7.2 – 7.6
• Total Alkalinity: 80 – 120 ppm
• Calcium Hardness: 200 – 400 ppm
• Cyanuric Acid: 30 – 50 ppm (for outdoor pools)

A: Poor balance can cause:

• Skin and eye irritation
• Scale or corrosion in equipment
• Algae growth
• Reduced chlorine effectiveness
• Cloudy water

A: At least 2–3 times per week, or daily in summer. For saltwater pools, monitor both free chlorine and salt concentration.

A:

• Free chlorine = active sanitizer
• Combined chlorine = chlorine that’s reacted with contaminants
• Total chlorine = free + combined

You want free chlorine to be dominant. High combined chlorine suggests you need to shock the pool.

A:

• High UV exposure without a stabiliser (cyanuric acid)
• Heavy swimmer load or debris
• Algae or bacteria in the water
• pH imbalance, which deactivates chlorine

A:

• Rising pH: high alkalinity, aeration, new plaster, salt chlorination
• Falling pH: rain, acid dosing, swimmer load

A: pH affects:

• Chlorine efficiency (too high = chlorine is weakened)
• Swimmer comfort
• Equipment longevity

A: Total alkalinity buffers your pH — meaning it helps keep pH stable. If TA is too low, pH can fluctuate wildly. If too high, pH may rise and become harder to adjust.

A: Most salt chlorinators operate best at 3,000 to 4,500 ppm (check your specific unit’s manual).

A:

• Too low: the chlorinator won’t produce enough chlorine
• Too high: may damage the chlorinator cell and corrode metal parts

A: Yes! While chlorine is auto-generated, you still need to regularly check:

• pH
• Total alkalinity
• Stabiliser
• Calcium hardness

A: It refers to the amount of dissolved calcium in your pool water. Ideal range is 200–400 ppm.

A:

• Too low: causes corrosion of metal parts, etching of pool surfaces
• Too high: leads to scaling on tiles, heaters, and plumbing

A: There’s no chemical reducer. You’ll need to partially drain and refill with fresh water that has lower calcium content.

A: Metals can enter through source water or from corrosion. They may cause staining. Use metal sequestrants if metals are present.

A:

• Basic test kit: at least 2–3x per week
• Digital testers or pool shops: every 2–4 weeks for a full test

A:

• Test strips: quick, easy, but less precise
• Liquid reagent kits: accurate for chlorine/pH
• Digital readers or photometers: most reliable for full chemistry breakdown

A: Yes — especially for outdoor pools exposed to sunlight. It protects chlorine from degrading under UV rays.

A:

• Use calcium hypochlorite or non-chlorine oxidiser
• Run the pump and let chlorine levels return to normal before swimming
• Do it at night for maximum effectiveness

A: Phosphates are nutrients that algae feed on. High phosphate levels create ideal conditions for algae to grow, which makes it harder for chlorine to keep the water sanitised and clear.

A: Phosphates can enter your pool water from a variety of sources, including:

• Decaying leaves, grass, and organic debris
• Lawn or garden fertilisers drifting into the pool
• Tap or bore water (especially in rural areas)
• Swimmers’ body oils, sunscreen, and cosmetics
• Algae die-off and poor filter maintenance

A: Anything over 500 ppb is elevated. Above 1,000 ppb may be contributing to algae outbreaks, even with proper chlorine levels.

A: Use an at-home phosphate test kit or visit a pool store for free in-store testing.

A:

1. Add a phosphate remover (follow dosage guide)
2. Run filtration continuously for 24 hours
3. Backwash or clean filter afterward
4. Maintain good sanitiser levels

A: Not always. If your pool remains algae-free with stable chlorine levels, treatment may not be necessary. If you see repeated blooms, phosphate treatment can be a good long-term strategy.

A: Robotic cleaners are self-contained, plug-in units that use electricity to clean the pool floor, walls, and waterline. Suction cleaners, on the other hand, connect to your pool’s filtration system and operate using the suction generated by the pool pump. Robotic models tend to be more efficient and independent, while suction cleaners are a budget-friendly option that rely on your existing equipment.

A: Yes — filters circulate and clean water, but pool cleaners target physical debris on surfaces like floors, steps, and walls. A cleaner helps reduce manual vacuuming and supports your pool filter by removing dirt before it can clog the system.

A: Robotic cleaners are ideal for most pool owners due to their superior performance, energy efficiency, and independence from your filtration system. Suction cleaners may be more suitable for smaller pools or where budget is a key factor.

A: This depends on pool size, surrounding environment, and season. Most robotic cleaners are run 2–3 times per week, while suction cleaners can be left in for daily cleaning, provided your pump is operating.

A: Robotic cleaners plug into a standard power outlet and use low-voltage electricity to power onboard motors and pumps. They scrub and vacuum pool surfaces, collecting debris into an internal filter canister or bag — completely independent of your pool’s pump and filtration system.

A: Yes — robotic pool cleaners are designed for both concrete and vinyl-lined pools, as well as fibreglass and tiled surfaces. Always check the product compatibility before purchase to ensure it’s rated for your pool type and size.

A: Many premium robotic cleaners can scrub and vacuum the walls and even the waterline. Models with gyroscopic navigation and powerful motors provide the most comprehensive coverage.

A: Most robotic cleaners operate in 1.5 to 3-hour cycles, depending on the model. Some also offer programmable or smart scheduling, allowing you to clean on a custom schedule.

A: After each use, empty and rinse the filter basket or bag. Periodically inspect the brushes and tracks for wear, and store the cleaner out of direct sunlight when not in use. Keeping it clean and dry extends its life and performance.

A: Absolutely. Robotic cleaners typically consume less than 100 watts per hour — far less than running a pump-dependent cleaner for the same period.

A: Suction cleaners connect to your pool’s skimmer or dedicated suction port. As water is pulled through by the pump, the cleaner moves around the pool, vacuuming debris directly into your filter.

A: Yes — most models come with hoses and fittings that easily attach to your existing pool plumbing. Setup usually takes just a few minutes.

A: Many pool owners leave suction cleaners in the pool during swimming season. However, it’s recommended to remove them during heavy swimming periods or when adding chemicals, especially shock treatments.

A: If it’s moving around the pool and picking up debris, it’s likely working as expected. If the cleaner is stationary or struggling to move, check the hose for air leaks or blockages, and make sure your pump has adequate suction.

A: Suction cleaners work best with a clean filter and a properly functioning pump. If suction is too low, the cleaner may stall or fail to climb walls. A flow gauge (often included) can help you adjust the suction line for optimal performance.

A: Most suction cleaners are designed for flat floors and walls. While some can partially clean steps, they may struggle with very tight corners or complex shapes. Robotic cleaners generally offer better stair and wall coverage.

A: Check for loose or tangled hoses, obstructions in the pool (toys, branches, etc.), or uneven pool surfaces. For robotic models, clean the tracks and brushes. For suction cleaners, ensure proper hose length and inspect for suction leaks.

A: Possible causes include clogged filters, worn brushes, or an incorrect buoyancy setting. Also make sure the unit is designed for wall climbing and that your pool walls are compatible (e.g., not too slippery or steep).

A: For robotic cleaners, brushes and tracks may need replacing every 1–2 years. Suction cleaners may require more frequent hose or diaphragm replacements depending on usage. Regular inspection is key.

A: It’s best to remove the cleaner during swimming for safety and performance reasons. Robotic models should never be used while people are in the pool. Suction cleaners can technically remain, but may interfere with swimmers.

A: The most common lighting options include:

• LED lights – energy-efficient, long lifespan, colour options
• Halogen lights – bright but energy-intensive, being phased out
• Solar lights – ideal for garden or poolside ambient lighting

A: Yes, most halogen light fittings can be upgraded to LED. You may also need to upgrade the transformer. Always use a licensed technician for electrical work.

A: Yes — they run on low-voltage 12V power and are sealed to meet Australian safety standards for underwater use.

A: Common entry solutions include:

• Stainless steel ladders
• Inbuilt or retrofitted steps
• Grab rails for safety

A: Yes — most can be surface-mounted into concrete decks or retrofitted to existing pools.

A: These include:

• Smart light controllers
• Wi-Fi enabled timers
• Bluetooth chlorinator add-ons

They let you automate pump cycles, lighting, and chemical dosing via app or remote.

A: Yes. Most include:

• 1–2 years for standard accessories
• 3–5 years for high-end brands (LED lighting, automation)

A: Core manual cleaning tools include:

• Leaf rakes and skimmers – remove floating debris
• Pool brushes – clean pool walls, steps, and tiles
• Wire brushes – scrub algae or stubborn stains on concrete surfaces
• Manual vacuum heads – attach to telescopic poles for floor cleaning
• Vacuum hoses – connect vacuums to your pool’s skimmer or suction port

A:

• Leaf rakes have deep mesh bags and are used to scoop leaves from the pool floor.
• Skimmer nets are flat and best for surface skimming of small debris.

A:

• Use a pool brush for general cleaning and regular maintenance.
• A wire brush is only recommended for concrete or pebblecrete pools with algae or calcium deposits. Do not use wire on vinyl or fibreglass pools.

A: Manual vacuums:

• Attach to a vacuum hose and telescopic pole
• Connect to your skimmer box or dedicated suction port
• Use the suction power of your pool pump to clean floors

They’re slower than robotic options but offer precision and control, especially for spot cleaning.

A: Choose a hose that:

• Easily reaches the furthest end of your pool from the skimmer
• Typically 10–12 metres for medium-sized pools

Longer hoses create drag but are necessary for larger pools.

A: Most manual accessories are universal fit and work with standard 32mm or 38mm vacuum hoses and telescopic poles. Always check fittings if buying components separately.

A: We recommend:

• Brushing and skimming at least once per week
• Manual vacuuming every 1–2 weeks, or as needed
• Supplementing manual cleaning with a robotic or suction cleaner for daily debris removal

A: Pool covers can significantly reduce water evaporation by up to 97%, conserving water and maintaining pool levels.

A: Yes, solar pool covers can increase water temperature by up to 8°C by trapping solar heat, extending the swimming season.

A: Absolutely. By retaining heat and reducing evaporation, pool covers can lower heating costs by up to two-thirds.

A: Using a pool cover reduces the need for chemicals by minimizing exposure to sunlight and contaminants, leading to cost savings.

A: Yes, pool covers act as a barrier against leaves, dirt, and other debris, keeping your pool cleaner and reducing maintenance.

A: Common types include solar covers (bubble-style), thermal covers, mesh covers, and hard covers. Each serves specific purposes like heating, debris protection, or safety.

A: A solar pool cover, or bubble cover, is designed to trap solar heat, warming the pool water and reducing evaporation.

A: Yes, non-heating covers like the Titanium Cool range reflect sunlight, minimizing heat absorption while still preventing evaporation.

A: ThermoTech covers offer higher insulation compared to bubble covers, making them suitable for indoor pools or areas requiring maximum heat retention.

A: Mesh covers are ideal for keeping out debris while allowing water to pass through, reducing the need for pumping off accumulated water.

A: Yes, many pool covers come with DIY installation guides. However, professional installation ensures optimal fit, performance and warranty guarantee.

A: For bubble covers, place the bubble side down, touching the water, to maximize heat transfer and evaporation reduction.

A: While covering the entire surface is ideal, partial coverage still offers benefits. However, uncovered areas may lead to increased debris and evaporation.

A: Lay the cover over the pool, allow it to settle, and then trim the edges carefully, ensuring a snug fit without excessive overhang.

A: Yes, pool covers can be customized or trimmed to fit various pool shapes, ensuring effective coverage.

A: Regularly hose off dirt and debris, and use a mild detergent for thorough cleaning. Ensure the cover is dry before storage to prevent mold and mildew.

A: Store the cover in a shaded area, preferably on a roller with a protective over-cover, to prevent UV damage and prolong its lifespan.

A: Lifespan varies by type and usage. For instance, a 525-micron cover can last up to 10 years with proper care.

A: Improper fit or high winds can cause the cover to dislodge. Ensuring a correct fit and using securing devices can prevent this issue.

A: Yes, covering your pool in winter helps retain heat, reduce debris accumulation, and minimize chemical usage.

A: While not mandatory, rollers make it easier to deploy and store the cover, enhancing convenience and extending the cover’s life.

A: Options include manual, stationary, mobile, and motorized rollers, each offering varying levels of convenience and automation.

A: Use a refit kit, which includes cords, eyelets, and other necessary components, to securely connect the cover to the roller.

A: Yes, with proper positioning and adjustments, rollers can accommodate various pool shapes, ensuring smooth operation.

A: An over-cover protects the rolled-up pool cover from UV rays and environmental elements, prolonging its lifespan.

A: A pool pump circulates water through the filtration system, ensuring debris removal and even distribution of chemicals, which is essential for maintaining clean and safe swimming conditions.

A: The pump draws water from the pool, pushes it through the filter to remove impurities, and then returns the clean water back to the pool, maintaining continuous circulation.

A: Effective circulation prevents stagnant water, reduces the risk of algae growth, and ensures that sanitizing chemicals are evenly dispersed throughout the pool.

A: Key components include the motor, impeller, pump housing, and strainer basket. Each part plays a vital role in the pump’s operation and efficiency.

A: Calculate your pool’s volume and desired turnover rate. Then, consider factors like total dynamic head and flow rate requirements to select a pump that meets your pool’s specific needs.

A: A single-speed pump operates at a constant speed, providing consistent water flow but often consuming more energy compared to variable-speed models.

A: Variable-speed pumps allow for adjustable flow rates, leading to significant energy savings, quieter operation, and extended equipment lifespan.

A: Yes, above-ground pool pumps are tailored to the unique requirements of these pools, often featuring self-priming capabilities and compatibility with smaller plumbing systems.

A: It’s not recommended, as in-ground pumps are designed for different flow rates and pressures, which may not be suitable for above-ground pool systems.

A: While some pool owners opt for DIY installation, it’s advisable to consult a professional to ensure proper setup, adherence to local codes, and optimal performance.

A: Typically, running the pump for 8 to 12 hours daily ensures adequate water circulation and filtration, but this can vary based on pool size and usage.

A: Running the pump during the day can be beneficial for chemical distribution and debris removal, especially after peak usage times.

A: To prime the pump, ensure the pump basket is filled with water, secure the lid, and start the pump. This process removes air and allows water to flow properly.

A: Check for air leaks, ensure water levels are adequate, and inspect the pump lid and O-rings for proper sealing. Re-priming may be necessary.

A: Inspect and clean the strainer basket weekly to prevent debris buildup, which can impede water flow and strain the pump motor.

A: Unusual noises may result from cavitation, worn bearings, or debris in the impeller. Regular maintenance and inspections can help identify and resolve these issues.

A: Leaks can occur due to worn seals, loose fittings, or cracks in the pump housing. Identifying the source promptly can prevent further damage.

A: With proper maintenance, a pool pump can last between 8 to 12 years, though this can vary based on usage and environmental factors.

A: Opt for a variable-speed pump, maintain clean filters, and run the pump during off-peak hours to enhance energy efficiency.

A: Prices vary based on type and features, but generally range from $300 to $1,500. Investing in energy-efficient models can lead to long-term savings.

A: Absolutely. Energy-efficient pumps reduce electricity costs and often have longer lifespans, offsetting the initial investment over time.

A: Yes. While we don’t list individual spare parts on our website, we can source many replacement parts on request. This includes filter cartridges, salt cells, pump lids, impellers, seals, baskets, control panels, and more. Just send us the brand, model, and a brief description or image of what you need.

A: You can use our contact form or email us directly with the equipment brand, model, serial number (if available), and a description or photo of the part. Our team will get back to you with availability, pricing, and expected lead time.

A: Some parts may be covered under manufacturer warranty, depending on the equipment and the issue. If your product is within the warranty period and the issue is manufacturer-related, we’ll assist with the warranty process. Refer to our full Warranty Policy in the footer for more details.

A: Delivery time depends on the supplier and part availability. For common parts, expect dispatch within 3–5 business days. Less common or international parts may take longer. We’ll always provide an estimate once your enquiry is processed.

A: Yes. We supply both glass and sand media, typically in 15–20kg bags. Let us know the filter brand and size, and we’ll recommend the correct quantity and type for your setup.

A: Cartridge filters typically last 1–2 years depending on usage and cleaning frequency. Signs of needing replacement include fraying, poor water flow, difficulty maintaining clarity, or visible damage to the pleats.

A: We can source cartridges for most major brands including AstralPool, Waterco, Zodiac, Hayward, and Davey. If we don’t have it listed, we can usually order it in — just provide the model number or dimensions.

A: Absolutely. We can assist with pump lids, impellers, seals, O-rings, baskets, and motors for most major brands. Be sure to let us know the exact pump model to ensure compatibility.

A: Yes — we offer genuine and compatible replacement salt cells for common brands. Since salt cell compatibility can be tricky, we recommend submitting a photo of your unit or its model number before purchasing.

A: Yes, we can source parts for many robotic cleaner models. Let us know the brand, model, and the part needed (e.g. tracks, filters, drive belts), and we’ll handle the rest.

A: Compatibility depends on brand, model, and year of manufacture. We’ll help verify compatibility before finalizing your order — that’s why we ask for clear details and photos wherever possible.

A: In the Perth region, we offer certified installation for selected equipment and parts. For other regions, we’ll provide guidance where possible or refer you to a local technician. For safety reasons, electrical components should only be installed by a qualified professional.

A: We’ll do our best to source a compatible alternative or refurbished component. If no options exist, we may suggest upgrading to a newer system with similar specs — often more energy-efficient and better supported.